The main types, and what they do
Exfoliation removes surface skin cells mechanically or with acids and enzymes. Which is appropriate depends on your skin type, sensitivity, pigment risk and what you have used recently.
- Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) — water-soluble, including glycolic and lactic acid, working on surface texture and tone
- Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) — oil-soluble, most commonly salicylic acid, able to travel into pore openings
- Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) — gentler, often suited to sensitive skin or as an introduction
- Enzymatic options — useful where acids are not appropriate
- Mechanical exfoliation — controlled, and very different from an at-home scrub
What it can and cannot support
Considered exfoliation, suited to the individual, can support smoother texture and a more even-looking tone. It is not a treatment for active inflammation, and it will not resolve pigment on its own — pigment needs assessment first, because melasma and post-inflammatory pigmentation respond differently.
Over-exfoliation is the common failure mode. Tightness, stinging, unexpected flushing and products that "stop working" usually mean a compromised barrier, and the correct response is to remove steps rather than add them.
Aftercare that protects the result
- Broad-spectrum SPF 50+ daily, reapplied when outdoors
- Gentle, fragrance-free cleansing while skin settles
- Pause retinoids, acids and vitamin C until cleared
- Do not pick or pull at any flaking — let it shed
- Avoid saunas, hot showers and heavy sweating for 24 to 48 hours
Full guidance is in the aftercare guidelines, and treatment-specific instructions are given to you at the clinic.